Broderie Anglaise + Linen: V1175 Donna Karan (Mark 2)

It was over a year ago that I first made a wearable muslin of this amazing Donna Karan Vogue pattern:

 

and I have worn that dress so much that it is becoming limp and weary.

I always intended to make it again, and finally I have:

Mark 2 is a little different from the original. This time around I've used a pretty broderie anglaise* for the contrasting front and back bodice, with a stone-coloured Irish linen for the skirt.

As the skirt fabric is heavy, I've left it unlined, and I've made the pockets from lining fabric.  I enjoyed the unusual hemline created by omittting the skirt "puff" first time around (in the pattern, the skirt outer is sewn to the skirt lining and this creates a bubble or puff effect), so I did the same again with mark 2.

See how the hem rises in front? Contrasting fabric also highlights the interesting shapes.

This is a straight 12, and very roomy around the waist and hips so perfect if you have pear tendencies. 

Pleats and shaping at the back

And at the last minute I took inspiration from the Prada top shown on the Feb. '12 cover of Vogue UK:

and hand sewed some extra daisies to the front neckline (this photo also tells you why my summery Sydney photos were taken inside):

Result? I love it!

Shall I make another? Maybe one for parties?

This is such a clever pattern... but it's not especially hard. It's rated Average; there are some places where you need to sew carefully and get the fabric pieces aligned correctly, but there are no ridiculously complex techniques needed.

*: the Prada top shown on the Vogue cover above is described as being made of broderie anglaise, so that's what I'm calling my fabric too.  I did do some internet searching to try to understand the difference between eyelet and broderie anglaise but it remained unclear to me.

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I'm considering applying Carolyn's approach to collecting statistics about the cost of my sewing habit - actually Carolyn has decided not to keep sharing this info per garment, and this may be a one-off for me too, but taking note of these facts even if I don't share them certainly makes me appreciate that sewing is neither a cheap nor a quick exercise for me.

Total cost $48

• pattern: $0 (second use therefore counts as free)

• lace from stash: approx $12 I think (designer remnant from The Fabric Shop, marked down due to lots of marks on the fabric that didn't wash out)

• linen from stash: $20 or less (less than 1.5m, bought on sale)

• lining from stash: 1m piece, so at most $8

• white thread: $0 (existing roll that was already half-used)

• daisy trim: $8 for 1m from Lincraft

Total time 8 hours
but would probably take 5 if you had enough fabric + a serger, and if you didn't add extra steps

• Cutting out this dress took me about an hour, but I had to place the bodice pieces between the marks on my lace, and I didn't have anywhere near enough linen for the skirt as drafted. I ended up being able to fit the skirt back, skirt front and part of the skirt sides (ie the really big pattern pieces in this pattern) onto my fabric, and then used the oddly shaped leftover bits to cut out the rest of the skirt sides in 4 more pieces. This took a lot of pattern piece jiggling, and my skirt then had extra seams to match up and sew.

• My sewing machine's 3-step zig zag is probably slower than a serger would be. One day... 

• I love pleats, geometric shapes and puzzle-like garment construction, but they make for a slower than usual dress to sew. 

• I added lots of top stitching (imperfect but slow going) and hand stitched the daisy trim on the neckline.

Gotta run!