Ruby on the Pier

On Thursday we had a heatwave, and circumstances combined to enable me to get some photos of a little gem that I'd sewn a couple of months ago in the tail end of summer...

Ruby top in striped seersucker cotton

Weather? Check, 33C (91.4F) according to my car; rather warm for Autumn.
Photographer? Check, a son who was prepared to offer his skills with a smile :).
Location? Check, a photogenic pier in Walsh Bay, where we'd be meeting my daughter and a friend.

Location, location, location! 

My photographer

So, the gem in question is a Ruby top, sewn from a lightweight striped cotton seersucker that I'm certain I bought at Tessuti fabrics but that I can no longer see in their online fabric store. 

I loved the look of the Ruby top in Tessuti's photos, but when I looked at the printed pattern pieces the armholes seemed more cutaway than I wanted. What do I know though, right? I'm not a pattern drafter, and it's hard to judge how a flat piece of paper will translate to a fabric draped on the body - so of course I needed to sew one up!

I sewed it up - and what do you know, more cutaway than on Tessuti's photos!

Ruby top, front view

Aha, but it's not what you think...

My Ruby IS more cutaway than you'll see on Tessuti's website, but that's because in my haste to sew the top I didn't read the pattern instructions. My top has no self-binding on the armholes and neckline, and this extra strip of fabric on the openings obviously makes shoulder straps wider and arm and neck openings smaller.  The final look of the top is very pleasing in terms of pattern visualisation skill development (yay!), but not so pleasing when I realise I've sewn myself a more cutaway top than I should have. In practical terms it means I didn't need the keyhole back opening - the neckline became large enough for my head - and that the top was super easy to fully line.

Ruby top, side view

Easy to line? A lined Ruby?

The stripey seersucker was very thin and summery but too see-through by itself, so I lined it with a soft white cotton voile from my stash. Without the keyhole back opening and the bias strips on the openings, a bagged lining was very easy - I sewed up shoulder and side seams on the two tops separately, then sewed them right sides together at the neckline, trimmed seams, and turned right side out and pressed. I then pinned the bottom hems together at the back, then turned the top inside out again and pinned the bottom hems, then sewed them together nearly all the way around, leaving a small gap for turning the top the right side out again.  Because I'd only left a very small opening (the fabric is very lightweight so it doesn't need a big opening), when I pressed the top again I found I didn't need to sew up the small gap - absolutely no fabric is trying to stray out of the gap.

Ruby top, front / side view

This Ruby is also quite cropped compared to most. The finished length is about 56cm (22") from the shoulder seam in my size 8 top, whereas the standard top length is 63.5cm (25") in a standard size 10. I'm really happy with this length, but I do think hip length would be great in a more drapey fabric.

Ruby top, *nearly* back view

And having just had a browse over on the Netaporter site (I really should be browsing that site before sewing, right? So many inspiring garments...) it seems that both lengths are quite fashionable, and that there are lots of interesting variations to make to a Ruby top with side splits, contrast binding, gathering, pleats...

Helmut Lang

Chloe

Isabel Marant

Halston

Yup, they're all basically Ruby tops!


I'll try to post again soon, and till then I hope you're having fun with your sewing!


- Gabrielle xx

Top C2: "Feminine Wardrobe" (Japanese Pattern Book)

 May I present top # C2 in the garden:

 

 

I think magnolias go with this top

 and also on me:

gee I hate getting my photo taken - even by myself!

 

this top is from the below Japanese pattern book for women.

I made the top in a size "LL" - according to the book's sizing chart I should definitely have made a smaller size, but I decided I would prefer this top quite loose.  The top was an absolute delight to sew - due to lovely fabric (beautiful cotton from Tessuti Fabrics in York St, Sydney) and a straightforward pattern that goes together nicely. I rather enjoy the freestyle form of sewing where you either don't have any instructions or can't read them, but when I was up to the attaching sleeves stage I was kind of relieved to come across this step-by-step tutorial, which confirmed the top was going together correctly (phew).

Although I made C2, the pattern I was really keen on was C3 - I didn't quite have enough fabric, even for a C3 top, so I'll have to make it another time - but have a look at this and this for great C3 examples.  It's the dress that's on the cover of the book - basically a longer version of the C2, with different sleeves and a big bow stretched across the front bodice.

PS this looks like a useful site for translating the commonly used kenji characters for sewing - and also this one spells out the basics of using a Japanese sewing pattern.  And this blog has several posts on the topic of Japanese crafting/sewing by guest blogger Kuky.

Japanese Pattern Book - Cute Clothes for Good Girls

About 18 months ago, before even getting a decent sewing machine to replace my thread-tangler, I bought my first Japanese pattern book - I think the title means "Cute Clothes for Good Girls" (ISBN 457911194x / ISBN 978457911194). 

The plan was to get back into the swing of sewing - without spending a fortune - by making some small cute clothes for my small daughter. I'd had a bad experience with Vogue children's patterns (rather voluminous) and loads of websites were raving about these pattern books from Japan.

My then sewing machine was not really functioning, but here are a couple of the things I made from this book:

Dress A, in a striped Japanese seersucker, bias binding on edges. This dress has a single fold in the front, and buttons down the back. I added a single patch pocket (very messily sewn!) and left off the sleeve ruffles. This is a great dress for a hot summer.

Dress front

Pocket detail

Buttoned back of dress (actually folded to show pocket too)

Dress A again, same details and changes, this time made up in a red patterned Japanese seersucker.

 

 

This dress is also good for layering with a skivvy and leggings in winter:

Skirt H, in a Japanese linen/cotton I think - I love this frog print :-). I didn't use the lace suggested in the pattern - just a regular elasticated waistband. And a feature zip, patch pocket and cute buttons - but the photos don't show these well so I'll try to locate the skirt and get a better picture.

 

Matching purse (no pattern)

A work in progress pic

Tunic Q, made in a delicious cotton voile (pockets omitted).

Tunic Q turned into a cotton dress after lots of modifications - pockets omitted, bodice changed, ric-rac added, button back from dress A used, plus leggings P made extra long to be like the big girls.

These clothes were made over a bit more than a year, so don't assume I'm a fast sewer!

If you'd like to see more sewing from Japanese pattern books, check out this collective blog. It's in French but easy to follow: click on the picture of the book in the left hand column you're interested in, and you'll be able to see images and short descriptions people have posted of the things they've made from that book. And FYI the top-most books are for women's clothes; the books for babies and children (Modèles enfants/bébés) start about half way down the page.