Burda 7576 Jacket - no longer just a muslin

I was still fitting that Burda 7576 jacket muslin - a size 14 sleeve seemed to go into the jacket muslin easily and without wrinkles, but it felt a bit tight in the sleeve cap area - when I came across This old Threads article.  It suggests that to fit your set-in sleeves comfortably you should get out an existing garment (a jacket of course if you're making a jacket) that feels like it fits well in the sleeves and measure it every which way, and take care that the measurements are consistent with those on the garment you're making. The point seemed to be that a sleeve can look to fit well but not feel like it fits well - I don't know how true this is, but measuring up a similar RTW jacket sounded good.


I got out an old favourite jacket that's a very similar style to the one I'm making (pics from Me Made March '11):

 

Interestingly they were identical in the sleeve circumference at underarm level and the armhole size. The RTW jacket was longer up to the sleeve cap by about 2cm, and the shape of the upper sleeve on the RTW jacket was broader and longer. The RTW jacket was larger in terms of shoulder width and upper back width too (by about 3cm).

I made some changes to my pattern pieces and I was going to cut out a new set of muslin sleeves when I decided I couldn't bear to keep working with that disgusting shiny polyester muslin crap. So I'm afraid I've probably skipped some crucial fitting steps but I've moved onto the real thing - proper wool fabric!  Here's a picture from just before cutting into the wool:

and there's enough for mistakes too!

Wool fabric you ask?  Wasn't it going to be linen? Well Sherry commented on my last post and noted that linen would be harder to set in than wool - I had no idea!  So although this is embarrassing, I went back into the tardis I mean stash and came out with something else; a red wool that matches the lining I was going to use with the red linen. I bought this fabric about 20 years ago I suppose from Lincraft - back in the days when they used to stock a pretty comprehensive range of Liberty lawn (how things have changed!). This fabric is nothing special and I don't know for sure how much I like it, but that means I won't have to cry when I stuff up my jacket.

And here are some progress shots - the sewing has commenced:

 

In these photos the peplum is only pinned in place - I need to attach the front facings before the peplum as the peplum front extends into facings that are just folded in place (if that makes sense).  I've also sewed the front and back facings together, and the 2-piece sleeves + sleeve facings together, and have sewn up and pressed the bodice and sleeve linings... it feels like it's coming together now!

This final photo shows the sleeves pinned on (only just) and the facings sitting on top of the bodice - but I think it gives you an idea of how the jacket may look in a few more steps:

Happy Easter and happy sewing everyone!