Cocktail Shorts (Vogue 9008)

You: Ooh, what's that?

Front, cocktail shorts (Vogue 9008)

Back, cocktail shorts (Vogue 9008)

Me: They're cocktail shorts!! Wanna see them on?

You: Sure, knock yourself out, take them for a spin, do a little dance...

Vogue 9008 cocktail shorts - perfect for dancing

You: Woah there Nelly, enough with the dancing - I was KIDDING! Let's get those lights back on pronto. OK, have you calmed down? Deep breaths, think of something sad...

Right, now let's have a proper look at the side and front views. Sensibly though. And I think we'll leave the back view for now - I know what you're like when you're in a silly mood!

Me: It's OK, I'm not going to do any more dancing!  Side then front, yes?

Side view, Vogue 9008 shorts

Front view, Vogue 9008 shorts

You: You know, they do actually look like cocktail shorts - not that I even knew there was such a thing, but I guess shiny silver would be about right. What's the fabric?

Me: Who knows, who cares! These are just for fun; they're the practice shorts! It's not like I actually GO to cocktail parties these days, is it.  I was actually going to make cushion covers with the fabric* but I just couldn't be...

*: Fabric source: Home Dec department in Lincraft. 

You: So they're just a muslin?  I was wondering if you'd really wear silver shiny shorts out - you had me going there for a bit!!!  Let me have another look at them... turn around slowly would you, I want to check something...

Side and back, Vogue 9008 shorts

Front, Vogue 9008 shorts

You: So have you made the real shorts yet? If not - don't take this the wrong way, and the cocktail shorts ARE great - well, they're just a smidge on the snug side, aren't they!  You'll make them a bit bigger in the final version, won't you?

Me: Yeah, I know... I haven't even shown you the waistband yet, have I:

Too tight, Vogue 9008 shorts

Me: So I do know they're too tight, but I kind of got carried away and cut out the next ones before I'd checked the fit of these properly...

 

You: Sigh... then maybe you just need to cut down on the chips or something...

You: Look, why don't you just tell me about the sewing pattern or something?

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You're invited to cocktails at 7 o'clock. Dress: shorts.

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Once upon a time there was a pair of shorts.

No, make that a couple of pairs of shorts; these shorts. But they were the ONLY ONES left on the Sass & Bide sale rack that day... 

Up close they looked beautifully made.  No internal debates - I tried on the largest size - oh, please, gorgeousness! But alas, it was not to be. Although they fastened, the shorts were just too small. And yet somehow they still looked flattering on... 

Inspiration!   

I headed back to the ranch as quickly as the corporate workday and commuter train would take me, and soon enough found myself flicking through patterns - which would it be, which could it be?

Bingo! Vogue 9008, view B would be my starting point:

And then I promptly fell off piste.

Here are the (easy!) modifications I made to the straight size 14, view B version of V9008:

• removed the fly from centre front
• added an invisible zip in centre back
• removed the waistband from front pieces
• added waistband length to front leg pieces
• continued angle / wrapover of back leg pieces all the way up to waist

Although the shorts photo above shows there's a pleat front on my inspiration shorts, my memory didn't even register the pleats, and swapped the front waist band to a back yoke. View E would have been a better match, but once view B has been modified to fit (ha! that's going to have to be for shorts number 4) I assume its crotch curve and other basic measurements will be consistent to view E.

And for the sewing? I probably could have found some stripes in my stash, but I wanted to test my modifications first. So I dug out this unloved home dec fabric, and end even though I was thinking these would just be test shorts I found I couldn't help myself - I pattern-matched on CF and CB, and I tried to place the florals and swirls at an attractive height and location. My pattern placement isn't spot on - I think the back florals should really be at the same height as the front ones, and the "moustaches" on the front waistline look silly - but these shorts look much better than I expected, and I can imagine wearing them out for drinks if I had that kind of a lifestyle :).

Fit wise, as you can tell from the photos above, there are some big problems. I probably need to start by going up a size, and then by drawing a longer waistband piece. I should use a fabric that has a bit more give than this shiny stuff, And I also need to compare this pattern to some pants that fit and work out where the crotch curves are different... 

Straight after finishing these I cut out another pair from a small piece (0.55 metres!) of blue and white striped cotton ticking, and then another pair from an old favourite skirt that hasn't fitted me in a very long time. I didn't alter the size for the striped pair as I wanted to see how much difference the fabric would make, but with the brown pair I used narrower seam allowances and also lengthened the back darts. Both pairs are nearly done but I've now misplaced the facings. When I finish these I'll share them with you, and THEN for shorts #4 I'll try to get a bit closer to that inspiration pair at the top of this post - and yes, there will be a 4th pair!


See you soon!

- Gabrielle xx

Silver Twist, B5650

Wahoo, don't you just love a swishy midi skirt? I've been wanting to make just this shape for such a long time!

Swishy midi skirt B5650

This skirt!  The flare feels just right, and the below the knee length hits a vintage-referencing sweet spot. Can't you imagine cutting a rug in this skirt?

Say what? Cutting a rug means dancing vigorously and extremely well. I've read that the term originated in the 1930s; when couples danced the jitterbug on carpet it looked like they were cutting it up with their feet.  Minnie who's a hep cat now did cut a rug, and it sounds like such a fun thing to do... I want to see that movie now!

I want to learn the jitterbug! B5650

A simple chambray skirt, yes, but there's a twist. A silver stripe. Chambray plus silver - utility meets disco!

Originally the skirt was going to be a pale pink stretch cotton, and the next one may be just that - but there's been so much chambray in the sewing blogosphere, so chambray jumped to the top of my queue. And then I saw a photo of a silver midi skirt in a fashion mag - too easily influenced - so the silver melded with the chambray, via a sporty stripe. 

Utility meets disco, chambray + silver B5650

This pattern, Butterick 5650, landed in my lap via the second hand shop. Fifty cents? Sold! The pattern illustrations really didn't grab me, but the line drawings had potential...  The pattern includes this skirt (view A), a gathered, looser version (view B), and a pair of gathered waist tapered pants (view C).

Imperfect hemline - B5650

My skirt isn't perfect, far from it. I was in such a rush to turn my idea into something tangible that I took a few shortcuts:

• I didn't check the finished measurements for the skirt - should have, and it's a bit tight.
• I hemmed the skirt according to the cutting out line - should have hung it overnight and adjusted it, as I can see in these photos that it's not straight.  
• I cut out my double layer silver rectangle, checking grainlines just once - should have double checked as the silver fabrics are very slightly off grain.  
• I ignored grainline recommendations for the chambray, instead placing grainline on centre back and parallel to the silver panel in the front. This made my zipper insertion and silver panel insertion easier but may have messed with the hang of the skirt. 

It's what I imagined - B5650

Checking out a fence - B5650

But despite the imperfections, I have to say the skirt pretty much looks as I imagined it.

It's a little tight across my winter layer (waist and hips), but it should fit nicely when the warm weather melts the winter layer away.

Sewing for summer - B5650

I mentioned some "shouldn't have"s above, but there were a few other changes I made to the straight size 14 pattern that I'm absolutely delighted I made:

• I swapped out the regular zip for a dark blue invisible zip - and yes, it's invisible :).
• I left out the pockets. Side pockets on a hip skimming skirt just add bulk! 
• I added a little length, 'cos I'm a little taller than average. 
• And not least of all, I added a silver panel down the centre front. Party time! 

No side pockets - B5650

This skirt has worked out well enough, but I've learnt a lesson along the way.

Just because a pattern terms itself "Fast & Easy" doesn't mean you can skip the basics. Like following grainline recommendations, for example. Like checking finished measurements, for another. Version 2 is going to be by the book, I tell you!

See you soon!

- Gabrielle xx