I've got a top to share with you today that proves that mirrors and cameras disagree - though in my opinion, cameras have happy days (everything is beautiful - that includes YOU!) and grouchy days (everything sucks, I hate you!). This particular top looked terrifyingly bad in the mirror, but looks a lot better through the camera lens.
|UpSewLate: this top looks better through the lens than in the mirror!|
After a couple of StyleArc successes (mind you, just the one pattern - two Danni dresses blogged here and here) my confidence was strong. The style of the Philippa peplum top really appealed to me - slim line, attractive seam lines, understated peplum, and a sleek V-neck. Yes please!
|StyleArc's Philippa Peplum Top|
I had a beautiful soft pink ponte lined up, and I was on the verge of cutting it out when a nervous little voice in my head pleaded with me to make a muslin. [OK, OK, I'm sure it isn't necessary, but I'll humour you this time.] Hence this cheap red ponte version of the top...
So here you go. At first glance I thought the top *looked* OK in these photos, so let me explicitly point out the fitting and sewing problems.
First of all, the whole top is too tight - I must need the next size up! The pattern is designed for ponte fabrics, but this top is so fitted on me that even a jellybean in my belly would be visible (these photos were taken many, many hours after lunch). It's fitted both above and within the peplum; clinging to rather than skimming over my hips. I envisaged this as a work top, but it's too fitted for the office - all my lumps and bumps would be on display; hello, mutton dressed as lamb! On the plus side, the shoulders feel like a good fit, so I guess they're a size smaller than the rest of me in StyleArc patterns (just like they are in Big 4 patterns).
|UpSewLate: I need to go up a size or more for my waist!|
|UpSewLate: A classic case of bust darts that are too high|
|UpSewLate: Yup, that's what a gaping neckline looks like!|
|UpSewLate: so long as I leave a hand on my hip whenever I bend forward I'll be fine... but is that practical?|
The back is too long on me - it desperately needs a big wedge removed. I guess this might be less noticeable if the top weren't so tight...
|UpSewLate: A back bodice that needs a swayback adjustment|
The sewing is sub-standard. My invisible zip is rubbish, with the fabric not lining up properly on either side of CB, and with the zip not really invisible. And my sewing is probably responsible for the facings popping out of the neckline - I don't think I was accurate enough in following the CF stitch line at the bottom of the facings. I have to say though that it's hard to do your best on something you already know you're getting rid of.
|UpSewLate: The blinding red hue hides the flaws!|
There are obvious solutions though, aren't there? Yes...
- I could go up a size or more through the body - either by having a crack at grading, or by using smaller seam allowances - and that would make the top a lot less fitted.
- I could lower the bist darts.
- I could raise the V, pinching out a dart from each side, though I'm not confident I'd get the upper bust CF line right...
- I could make a massive swayback adjustment.
- I could take a bit more care with my sewing :-P.
|UpSewLate: it's too late for this Philippa!|
Yes, I could do all that, but this particular top has already been donated to charity, and for now I don't think I'll have another go. Philippa is a winter top, and it's now summer, but more importantly, my mind has already wandered off to other patterns.
I hope your sewing is going well!
See you soon
- Gabrielle x