Wednesday 31 July 2013

Unreasonably Unseasonal: Summer Jacket

My head is full of sewing ideas, but new ideas keep pushing in. It's hard to keep track - I'm not a fast enough sewist, so I've resorted to wrapping patterns + scribbled drawings in their designated fabrics.

Yes, this is winter down under :). Temps around 20+C / 70+F ...

One plan that I am determined to keep hold of is to make a cream-coloured cropped cashmere jacket - sounds indulgent, doesn't it, but I found 2 coordinating remnants in my stash, and after a trip to Tessuti (they have no more of it!) I'm sure I've convinced myself there's enough.



I've got some patterns earmarked for the cashmere jacket, and I know my size, but fear of cutting into my lush, expensive cashmere led me to the idea of a wearable muslin from one of the pattern contenders...

...which led me to make this decidedly summery jacket in the middle of winter!


Although I guess some of you may want to point out we don't have a real winter per se in Sydney ;)





I don't know what the flowers on this fabric are supposed to be, but the lighter pink is a great match for my neighbour's magnolias (is that what they are? I'm not a gardener!). 

NEARLY pattern matching on the centre front

This next photo shows the colours a bit better - and shows that I managed to sew a snap on neatly for once, although I didn't turn the points out properly:


This pattern, Vogue 1127 (suit + blouse by Badgley Mischka) is rated Average, but the jacket is very straightforward - loose fitting with darted raglan sleeves, and only the sleeves are lined. The rating might be for the floaty blouse it comes with; it wouldn't be for the straightforward-looking suit skirt. There's minimal interfacing: nothing like the level of stiffening you'd need for a tailored jacket, and even with the stand up collar left off the facings work out neatly.  Notches, curves and lengths in the pattern pieces align nicely and the pattern pieces are really logical; no puzzle solving required.  All the jacket seams are finished with bias binding, which you're instructed to make yourself (I just used pre-made stuff, whatever I had to hand) which means the pattern is ideal for non-serger owners. If you've never made a jacket, this might be a good pattern to start with; success will come easily.


But the thing is, this may not be a top contender for my cashmere jacket after all.  I want a full lining in my winter jacket, even if it is cropped, and I want more room for winter layers and movement. Also I'm pretty sure cold hands need pockets.
 
 

I like having no collar though, even on a winter jacket - makes it easy to wrap a scarf on top.



The original pattern has a standup collar but I didn't think this would be great on. Maybe for someone else with a nice jawline :). The original also had full length sleeves, but I only had 1.10 metres of my heavy linen to play with. I've also left off some buttons, just because.



As a wearable muslin, I'm calling this a success. It'll be totally wearable in Spring and Summer, and I know it'll go with a much loved coral sillk top:
 

I can also imagine it made in a softer fabric, with the fronts folding back on themselves... and it would be super-easy to make contrasting turn-backs on the sleeves.

I think I know what I really want from my cashmere jacket now.


I'll leave you with a couple of interior photos so you can see how easy this little jacket is to make :)

 
 





and an exterior photo too just because those flowers nextdoor are so pretty:



See you soon!

- Gabrielle x

26 comments:

  1. Lovely! I like the colours so much, and choosing this pattern was a great idea. From the little photo in bloglovin I thought you made a bomber jacket, which, I think, would be a very useful spring item too!

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    1. Thank you Merche! A bomber jacket would be great - Kazz the Spazz made some amazing ones recently too (have you seen them?) - but I'd better not let myself get off track!

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  2. Cream and cashmere don't go in my life, but I'd love to see yours. I like this little jacket.

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    1. I know, cream and cashmere and kids do not mix! It'll be fine for me "at work" but I know I will have to take it off as soon as I get home from work... Silly but I really want it in my wardrobe!

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  3. Yep, magnolias, and completely gorgeous, just like your cute little jacket. I love the summery print.
    I am interested in what you chose for your cashmere, how luscious!

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    1. Oh good, not so garden illiterate after all :). Thanks, this fabric is actually upmarket furnishing stuff - I decided it was too nice for cushions. Fingers crossed that the cashmere jacket works out!

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  4. The Fabric Store had some really nice wool and cashmere on sale last week. Lots of colours. Just sayin.

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    1. And now you've reminded me, their sale is going to be even harder to resist!!! Glad to hear they have cashmere... I guess I should at least have a look, right?

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  5. Perfect spring jacket, love the colours and those magnolia's are gorgeous. I'm also interested in knowing what pattern you have chosen for your cashmere, as I purchased 2 yards when I was in London and am still looking for a suitable pattern.

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    1. Thanks Sharon! I have my pattern contenders, and I know what features I want - but the final decision will have to be just before cutting out :)

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  6. Lovely! I like the cropped length and the floral print, it's great for wearing over a shift dress!

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    1. Thank you! Funnily though this was a dress I'd forgotten about- a happy rediscovery!

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  7. I think the jacket would look great in cashmere! Want to trade weather? I'm In New Zealand we make it past 10 C if we are lucky during the day :/

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    1. I think so too, but I want a few changes... so maybe this pattern with some mods, maybe another pattern.

      Swap weather? Only if we swap mountains too :). Deal? No, seriously I wouldn't want to swap weather. I know we're lucky not to get very cold weather but I don't think I could handle it

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  8. I love all your artistic shots in this post. Great photos and despite not being the top contender for your cashmere it is a lovely jacket. Love it without a blouse and your black skirt.

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    1. Thanks Kirsty! These were wheelie bin selfies, like yours. The wheelie bin was on grass though (less risky for the camera) and at an angle, so I also had to usea large piece of gravel under my camera. Professional or what! A tripod would def be better but then the selfies-in-progress would be undeniable to the neighbours (Oh hello! Lovely to see you - oh I think this fern is done now, the trimmings are in the bin already aren't they.)

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  9. Totally lovely jacket, spring and summer perfect. It is an excellent topper for the black skirt. The blouse is wonderful too. And I agree with Kirsty's remarks - you have an excellent eye for photography!

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    1. Thank you Kathleen, that's very kind of you!

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  10. Gorgeous! Sydney winters are lovely but I don't mind Denver winters these days either;)

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    1. Thank you Marianne! I've never experienced a Denver winter, but never say never :). I think you have snow but sunshine in winter, don't you? which sounds pretty nice...

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  11. Beautiful jacket and good luck with your choice for the cashmere! Looking forward to seeing what you do!

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    1. Thank you! I'm pretty much decided now, just trying to stop myself from getting distracted by a different sewing project!

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  12. It is a lovely jacket! I really like the fabric. I think a Chanel-type jacket in cashmere would be gorgeous. I'm currently making the Anise jacket in a wool/cashmere and it is lovely fabric but annoying to work with - the nap is giving me grief! Looking forward to seeing yours!

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    1. Ooh, an Anise - I've seen some gorgeous ones around, I'm sure yours will be amazing! I have two bits of cream wool/cashmere to work with, and they're quite different weights - I'll have to check if the nap is going to be an issue, didn't think of that!

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  13. Oh what a lovely jacket! Nice idea to leave off that collar, I prefer your version heaps more than the pattern illustration xx

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    1. Thank you Zoe - I'm a bit 'all or nothing' with jacket collars I guess! Hey btw this is actually the kind of shape that can accommodate a decent baby bump... xx

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