Saturday, October 15, 2016

Swimming in Italy

I'm just back from 3 weeks in Europe (mostly Italy), and I took the opportunity while I was there to photograph a couple of recent makes.  Embarrassing myself in front of people I don't know is definitely easier than doing so in front of the neighbours!  These photos were taken in the back garden of a house where I stayed in Sicily.

First up I'll show you the bikini bottoms I sewed using McCall's 7168 and two colours of swimsuit fabric from Tessuti fabrics (this gorgeous fucshia lycra is my red; the pink isn't showing up online). The top I'm wearing with them is a RTW top that I got at a very good price a few years ago because it was an orphan - no pants to go with it - and it's very satisfying to be able to make the bikini complete!

Not perfect by any means, but I've had swimwear sewing failures in the past and these feel like a terrific step in the right direction. I'm happy with the way they look on, and stoked that the colours match the bikini as well as they do - though sadly they don't fit me comfortably.  

Basically they feel too tight - like shapewear tight, particularly around the waist - and I also feel like my bum is hanging out at the back :(.

The first fit issue (tightness) came about mostly because I assumed I was the same size as usual with McCall's (and maybe swimmers are different, or maybe recent patterns are different) - I couldn't find finished measurements on the pattern tissue or instructions so I really should have measured the pattern pieces to confirm the size.  Oh and also because there is something odd going on with the waistband, but more on that later.  And the "bum hanging out" feeling (yes, there will be relevant pictures later in this post) comes from my cutting back the leg opening on the pants ie absolutely my own fault. The legs of these bikini pants were initially too low cut in the front for me, and the gusset area was too wide, but in retrospect the original length was probably just right for me in the backside :(.

Anyway, let's backtrack a bit to talk about the pattern and the sewing.

The pattern is the very cute McCall's 7168, which has been made up beautifully by lots of other bloggers and no doubt many non-blogging sewists too.  It includes loads of variations for the top half of the bikini - strapless bandeau, halter neck, flounced top, long flounce top with tummy coverage or triangular bikini bra - and three options for the bikini bottoms (panelled high waist bottoms, panelled gathered high waist bottoms or simple bikini bottoms), and the sewing instructions are detailed as you'd expect from McCall's.  Here's the main photo from the pattern envelope:

I cut out the high waisted gathered pants (like the ones in the above photo) in a straight size 14, but since the waist band looked narrower than my waist (and narrower than the top edge of the swimmers it would join to) I cut it a couple of sizes bigger and just a little smaller than my waist.

The gathered sections of the swimmer are sewn to an ungathered layer of swimsuit fabric and also later enclosed by the lining, so the sides become quite thick. The front and back panels without gathering are supposed to have just a lining layer, but I thought these areas needed to be more substantial so made the entire lining from swimsuit fabric.


The gathers go all the way to the seam allowance, so if you're concerned about where the leg seam is going to end up sitting this is something to be aware of - on me the front leg seam was a few centimetres below that natural crease between thigh and hip - and if you zoom in on the pattern photo above you'll see that the original swimmers extend below this crease on the model too. 

A comparison with my favourite RTW bikini bottoms also showed me that the crotch width was a couple of centimetres wider than my usual size, so I'd recommend checking this width for yourself if you sew these up.

To confirm how much I wanted to remove from the leg opening I tried the pants on inside out at the stage where the panels had all been sewn together, and used a washable marker pen to draw the "natural" leg lines that I wanted to become my new seam line.  You can probably see the vestiges of blue pen marks in some of my inside out photos if you look closely! 

I'm happy with the new seam line in the front leg (and crotch) but I wasn't sure where I wanted the seam line in the back - in retrospect I should have left that area alone instead of extending my pen line all the way around.  Actually I think the fit would feel a lot better if I had more tension in the leg elastic around the bum area... I used the prescribed length of swim elastic inside the folded over leg seam, but it's slightly longer than I needed. 

And this is what they look like on, from behind:

Not my favourite view!

You can also see that the join between the gathered panel and the flat panel gets quite bulky, especially at the leg opening where you turn all those layers over a piece of elastic:

The waist band is sewn onto the paneled pants the same way you might sew a neck band onto a top - except that the waistband also includes elastic.  The pattern didn't indicate the sort of elastic to use, but I've never seen wide swimwear elastic so I used a regular firm non-roll elastic, the sort you'd use for a skirt or pants.  The pattern provides a guide for the length of elastic to cut, significantly longer (around 13 centimetres longer in a size 14) than the waistband length. The waistband and elastic are intended to conform to the body when the pants are worn, but both my waistband and waist elastic feel too tight on.  Of course I should have checked these measurements on myself - my fabric and elastic may have a different amount of give and recovery to those assumed by the pattern. 

I think I might unpick the waistband to remove the elastic - maybe that will make the swimmers more comfortable. Hmmm - perhaps I need a whole new waistband in my larger girth... 

I'm not 100% thrilled with these because they aren't comfortable to wear, but I know what I need to fix (waistband, leg elastic!) next time.  And these swimmers do at least look the way I wanted them to, which is at least half the challenge, right? 

Next up, a simple top photographed in a stunning spot - I hope you won't mind seeing some travel photos!

See you soon

- Gabrielle x

Friday, September 16, 2016

Swish: Vogue 1466 Donna Karan Skirt

Swish: that's the word I want when I think of this skirt:

No, not the posh, stuck up sort of "swish":


The other kind - the movement kind of "swish"!

I wore this skirt to work the other day for a trial run and if felt amazing, the fabric echoing the movement of my legs as I walked or swayed (just to get some more of that swish).

Just soooo swishy... and cosy too!

Although it feels amazing on, there is one problem with the way I've made this skirt, and it's at waist level.

I really don't know why I do this, but when I measure myself before cutting out, very often I will stick my stomach out. Crazy! And I don't realise I've done it till I sew up the garment and discover everything fits except the waist, which is too big.  So I cut this skirt out as a size 14 with a size 16 waist - and should have stuck with the straight size 14.

I'd like to think it's not as glaring an error as it appears in these photos - but even if it is, well I have to admit I wear RTW with bigger fit issues!

It's also a tad shorter than I'd like... I would have loved an extra 5 or so centimetres of length to get to midi length, but I simply didn't have the yardage - from recollection I had 1.5 metres bought for a top for my son*, and the pattern pieces looked to fit IF I trimmed the skirt length by a centimetre or so.

* his polite response along the lines of "thanks, but you don't have to mum" meant "I don't like it"

But the hips fit nicely, so there is that:

And it's a really easy skirt to sew!

I did make one addition to the pattern: I added a lining to the skirt, simply using the flared skirt pattern pieces cut a few centimetres shorter: 

The lining fabric is a soft sort of mesh, which I really like as a lining for knit skirts and dresses (like this one).  It doesn't add much in the way of bulk but it stops the bumps of underwear lines from showing and makes the skirt feel more upmarket than its unlined cousin. Oh and no need for hems or seam finishes, as it doesn't seem to unravel!

As you can see, I didn't finish the seams on my outer fabric either - that also doesn't ravel :). The outer fabric is from Tessuti Fabrics, I think a cotton elastane mix. It's a really lovely weight in a skirt like this - not too heavy, not too flimsy. The colour hasn't come out correctly in these photos though (that bright winter sunshine!); it's a khaki rather than a brown, and goes really well with the Donna Karan drape jacket I showed you about a month ago (blogged here).

Basically it's a great pattern, lovely fabric and a user error or two combining to make a skirt I love :). So many photos, and so little to say!!


Pattern: Vogue 1466 (skirt), Donna Karan

Fabric: cotton-elastane, mesh lining from Tessuti Fabrics

Notions: elastic, hidden within the waistband

Final verdict? This skirt is going to get a LOT of wear. The pattern is a really good one - I'm considering making the skirt again, and I've already got the jacket cut out from some gorgeous dark blue boiled wool from Tessuti Fabrics.  I wish Donna Karan was still designing and doing patterns!

My next post is probably not going to be for a few weeks - but I hope then to be able to share some swimmers with you. I've had an orphan bikini top for years, and have FINALLY got around to sewing bikini bottoms to go with it using the ruched, high waisted bikini bottoms from McCalls 7168.  So far they seem a bit tight but we'll see...

Happy sewing!

- Gabrielle xx

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