Showing posts with label Libby skirt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Libby skirt. Show all posts

Sunday, 17 May 2015

What the Wardrobe Says

At a certain point in a sewist's career, his or her wardrobe will start making demands. The first squeaks I heard this year were about using up fabric scraps:

"Don't you go wasting those lovely pink ponte scraps! Don't be lazy - get creative!"
It wasn't a bad idea - so I rifled through my fabrics for something else to "get creative" with.  I started with the pink ponte scraps of course (left over from this raglan sleeve top, whose raglan sleeves I'm still disappointed with, but which gets worn because it goes with so much and the fabric feels so lovely on), and then chose a small piece of striped print ponte from Spotlight, not a scrap but certainly too small for a whole garment (what was I thinking?).


I decided I wanted a top that was quite basic and not a fabric hog, as I wanted the pink scraps not to be overwhelmed by the stripes. The pattern I chose was Vogue 8916 - this is a "wardrobe basics" pattern that includes a top, jacket, skirt and dress.  The top is designed for a woven fabric, and I usually sew a size 12 in Vogue tops, so normally in making the top in a stretch fabric I'd have stuck with the size 12 or even gone down a size. However, having made the top before in a size 14 (my Splat! top, blogged back in February last year, and also worn last May in MMM14), I knew the sizing was quite fitted, so I sewed a size 14 as before.  [For sizing reference, in Australian RTW I wear a size 10-12 in tops. I think this equates to a size 6-8 in US RTW sizing, and a 10-12 in UK sizing but I'm happy to be corrected if I'm wrong.]


This time around I wanted 3/4-ish sleeves (inspired by Jackie Kennedy jackets from the late '50s / '60s), but the pattern is for short t-shirt length sleeves. To get the right length I just measured how far down from my shoulder point I wanted the sleeves to end, and then used a ruler to extend the sleeve cutting lines to this length plus a few inches.


The top as drafted is longer than I wanted, so at the hemming stage I tried the top on and pinned the lengths I wanted for both the bodice and sleeves - and I ended up cutting a few inches off the bodice to get to this high hip length with a nice deep hem. 


The neckline was sewn down with a twin needle, seams were finished with an overlocker, which I know is unnecessary with a ponte, and the hems are sewn with a single line of stitches (long stitch length though) about an inch in from the edge.

Oh and this next one is a close-up photo I took for myself with a tripod and remote - but all those other, much better photos, were taken by my 7 year old daughter. And there was no need for me to crop or straighten them (unlike when I'm taking the photos)!! 


I'm really pleased with this one - yes, it's very basic, but the pale pink cropped sleeves make it a little more interesting than a straight stripey top, and it mixes well with heaps of my current wardrobe inhabitants (like the blue jeans, the narrow black pants, the black culottes and my pale pink B5650 midi skirt).  And I have to say, it's ridiculous how much better this top fits me than my earlier plain pink Papercut top with the raglan sleeves....


Speaking of which, I've been thinking about raglan sleeves a lot this year - they seem such a simple design shape, but my experience suggests it's not easy to draft a raglan sleeeve that will fit well. Obviously some raglan sleeves work beautifully - I really like the sleeve shape on this cashmere jacket I made a few years ago, for example -  but there seem to be a lot of raglan sleeve patterns around that are built from straight lines and no darts, and I know I can make that sort of pattern for myself (as I did with my geometric silk top, which you can see here).

So in the interests of testing ponte fabric with a good raglan sleeve pattern, but not because I needed one, I decided to make a raglan sleeved ponte jacket. I pinned out the pattern - Vogue 1098, just like the cashmere jacket - but then, wouldn't you know it, the wardrobe started squawking again:

"I need a skirt! Make something plain and warm, for goodness sake! You need a warm skirt for winter... "
This kind of demand smacks of utilitarianism to me (maximising utility, where utility is defined as the lack of suffering from cold legs), and it's downright irritating to a hedonistic sewist, but it did sound sensible - I do get very cold in winter...

So plans for a the raglan sleeve ponte jacket were ditched, and I made a very simple lengthened Libby A-line skirt.  I've fully lined it for warmth, and it's a very sensible and not particularly stylish length (maximum warmth, minimum puddle drag, style - qu'est-ce que c'est?), but it does fill a cold weather gap in my wardrobe.


I used the Libby skirt pattern as part of my painterly dress in January, but the fabric I used back then had incredibly little give, so the fit is very different.  I cut it out a size larger than last time but then ended up taking it in to the original size when I tried it on - and it's still loose (in fact it sits on my hips rather than at my waist).  If the width grows I'll take it in, but I'm expecting to see a little shrinkage in the wash (yes, I skipped the pre-wash - but you don't need to tell me how silly that is; I know!!).


The Libby skirt is very straightforward but fits me pretty well (and yes, of course that means it has darts and curved lines!), and being designed with a facing instead of a waistband flatters for my short waist. It's also a free pattern, so it's a good one to play with if you want to see whether Tessuti's drafting and instructions are for you. Even though it's a straightforward pattern, I made a couple of changes in sewing it up. I moved the invisible zip to centre back because I find zips to behave much better for me in that position (my backside is a lot less curvy than my hips!). I tried something a bit different with the skirt lining too - maybe this is silly, but I thought I might be able to minimise future stretching at the waist if I brought my lining fabric all the way up to the waist instead of ending at the facings - so that at the waistline there are two layers of ponte AND a layer of lining fabric. Time will tell if that was a clever idea or not...


What more is there to say? On its own the skirt is not very interesting, but it offers warmth to a lot of leg length, and it's the kind of neutral colour that will go with lots of other garments - I'm thinking it will work well with big chunky knit tops, big scarves and cropped jackets. And the sandals I'm wearing in these photos will probably be switched with boots!


I have vague plans to make the Libby again in a much more fun fabric (bright orangey/coral wool!) this winter, but honestly, I'm not getting nearly as much sewing (or blogging!) done as usual these days. My son changed schools this year, and it's meant getting up an hour earlier most days of the week. For the first few months of the school year I just stayed up as late as usual, but I became absolutely exhausted and run down. In late March I got a cold, and then that developed into the flu, from which I'm only now recovering - so I'm taking that to mean I need more than 6 hours sleep a night!

Unfortunately, more sleep means less sewing time :(.  How do you fit it in??



See you soon

- Gabrielle xx




Monday, 19 January 2015

The Painterly Dress

Skipping past a couple of unblogged 2014 makes for now, here's my first dress of 2015:

the painterly dress! 

Front view, painterly dress
Isn't this fabric pretty? I think it looks so painterly, if that's the correct word - it reminds me of flowers and reflections in puddles, and impressionism! 

Polyester twill from The Fabric Store
The fabric is a medium weight twill from The Fabric Store in Sydney, and I suspect probably made from 100% polyester - whatever it is, it was tricky to sew! My serger adored the fabric, but I had a lot of trouble getting the tension right with the fabric in my sewing machine, which is why the princess seams are rippling. I'd sorted out the tension by the time I sewed the skirt, so the skirt side seams are fine. The bodice also looks like it's pulling so I guess for a fabric with zero give I should have allowed myself more room. I do realise I could have unpicked and resewn the bodice with a little more room and with the improved tension settings, but when I unpicked a small area to try to do just that I discovered the old needle holes remained very visible on the fabric, and I only had miniscule scraps of fabric left over, so I decided to chill and put up with a bit of rippling and pulling.

And the dress pattern? Well it isn't really one thing or another, it's the Libby A-line skirt from Tessuti patterns, which I've been meaning to try for ages, combined with princess seamed bodice from an old favourite of mine, DKNY pattern V1193.

I've made V1193 a couple of times now with sleeves (here in a red ponte, and here for my "Out of Darkness" dress), and used the bodice without sleeves at least once more (here for example in Pink Panther fabric for the Sew Dolly Clackett challenge), so I pretty much know by heart how to make it fit me properly. On this occasion I used the same minor adjustments as usual (essentially I use several sizes - size 10 for the shoulders, size 12 at the bust, size 14 at the waist).  I initially added length to the whole bodice but then ended up removing a wedge of fabric at the back for what is apparently not so much a sway back as a short back (thank you Lara for reminding me about Beth's post on that adjustment!). In the photo below it looks like the back is still a bit long, but I had my shoulders back for these photos, and usually when my posture is not so good I need that little extra back length.

Shortened back bodice
There are lots of pure Libby skirts on the internet (see Jillian, Rachel, and Elizabeth, for example) and if you want to see this fabric sewn up differently, check out Emma's Simplicity pencil skirt.

I cut this Libby skirt in a size 14, and then found I could trim about an inch from the sides when I attached the skirt front and back to the bodice front and back - the skirt was a lot wider than the bodice - so I guess I had mismeasured myself. Anyway, it was super easy to attach the Libby skirt to the Vogue bodice, and I only wish I'd got the skirt size right in the first place because I suspect if I had, the skirt darts might have lined up with the princess seams! Anyway, the darts are completely lost in the print, so that's just something I'll bear in mind for any future Libby + Vogue makes.

I would have liked a deep hem on this dress but the skirt was shorter than I anticipated, so I finished the hem with some coordinating satin bias binding, machine stitched in place.  It would've looked better with a hand stitched hem, but the bodice is all sorts of imperfect anyway, so it didn't seem worthwhile!

Hem finish - satin bias binding
The bodice is fully lined in a nice satin that I picked up second hand ages ago.  I sewed the lining with a bit of extra width, but it's proved unnecessary given how little the outer fabric moves. The lining is understitched around the neckline, and handstitched in place down the zipper tape and around the waist.

A bit of hand stitching
What else? Well there's an invisible zip in the size seam, and although I've got more of that annoying rippling happening in the seams, at least it's consistent front and back - my seams aligned nicely at the waist and the zip is nearly invisible!

Side view with invisible zip in the side seam
Close up of the invisible zipper in the skirt section
Over on the other side of the world I know plenty of sewists are looking forward to Spring, but with this dress I feel like I'm only just kicking into Summer gear - Summer, you've GOT to stay a bit longer! 


See you soon

- Gabrielle x
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