I've made pants before - V1098 here, here and here, also as a pair of shorts here, the ginormous V2289 here, the very red V1293 here - and Anita pants here and here, but when I've achieved a decent fit it's felt like I've either lucked out with the pattern (V1098, that's you) or played it safe with ponte! Hence the class :).
To try to maximise my education I chose a very fitted pants pattern designed for a woven fabric, V1204 by Issey Miyake. It's essentially a designer version of a jeans pattern:
I figured that if I could get the fit sorted on fitted pants, I'd be able to apply this to looser pants too - and of course the fit on a loose pair of pants wouldn't give me all the answers if I subsequently wanted to make fitted pants. And I've found that stretch fabric can smooth over fitting problems, so it made sense to learn about fit with a woven fabric.
Megan showed me where to remove bucket loads of excess fabric from my initial muslin, and I came away from the class with a new pattern for muslin #2. It's now sewn up - with just a couple of post-class adjustments (removing a little width at centre back from about hip level and up, and very slightly raising the crotch). It's SUCH an improvement on muslin #1, which was like a calico wrinkle-magnet, but I took a lot of photos of muslin #2 to help myself work out what still needs to be done.
Do you want to see how it's looking? This is muslin #2 with the couple of extra tweaks made after class:
There's still some fabric wrinkling on the backs of my thighs... so I thought I would try pinching out a dart from the back to pull the crotch curve up:
This seems to at least alter if not completely remove the wrinkles:
My next idea was to pinch out some fabric in the front, to pull the fabric up - the photo on the left shows just one side pinned in place, and the photo on the right shows both sides pinned in place:
Yes, I think this is progress!
Next up I want to check what the crotch curve on these pants is looking like (I might need more room in the back curve), and I'm going to go on a pants fitting internet trawl.
And over to you - I know there are so many bloggers and sewists out there who've cracked the pants fitting problem for themselves! Do you think any of those darts in the photos have potential to improve the fit? Is there a completely different adjustment I should be making?
Thank you - and good night!
- Gabrielle x