Monday 4 August 2014

Simple Shapes

If you sew, do you shop? For clothes, that is? Or do you just "inspiration shop"?  I have to admit to rather enjoying shopping for clothes: I enjoy stumbling across interesting shapes and fabrics, and seeing how those shapes and fabrics change when they move from hanger to body. These days I make a big effort to restrain my impulses though, and I try to treat much of what I find as research for future makes - though it's probably extremely annoying for sales staff :).

So where is this heading? Well a few months back I went inspiration shopping, and I found an amazing top. A heavy brocade top, just longer than waist length, with an unnaturally sloping shoulder line and tapered kimono sleeves that were constrained by those strange sloping shoulders. I wish I had a photo of it! I absolutely loved it. I tried it on, loved it even more. I resisted - "I can make that!", I thought, though I couldn't pin it to a pattern.

That evening I drew some sketches of the shape I'd tried on. I'd tried to get a rough idea of the angle of the shoulder line that day in the changing room by using hand lengths and finger lengths to work out how much it dropped off and how quickly, and I'd tried to keep my own basic measurements in mind for waist, bust, shoulders and neck-waist length. My first muslin (in a metallic polyester) was unwearable - I couldn't even get it over my head! - but what about number 2 (in a stretch terry)?


Well I quite like number 2, and it fits me, but stretch terry is not brocade. This top is approximately the right shape but smaller and milder than my inspiration. It's kind of cute, but a question struck me once the top was made:

                  just who needs a cropped short-sleeved sweatshirt? 

Hmm.



The below photo shows the top inside out, with the camera held directly above the top (ie the angles aren't distorted). You can see that the shoulder line really is quite angled - and if you look in the topmost photo above you should also be able to see it in the way the horizontal stripes get cut off.


You can also see what a shoddy, quick piece of sewing work this was - but it is just a muslin!


Moving right along to the third version. Still not in brocade...

Before working on getting my sketch closer to the inspiration shape (ie more exaggerated!), I decided to make up another stretch version, this time with a bit more commitment. So this time I used a prized piece of jersey from Tessuti fabrics - prized because it's such a terrific colour PLUS it has stripes!


You can see that the top looks quite different made up in a fabric that drapes... and you can hardly tell that the shoulder line is angled!


Regular stripes weren't enough; I wanted the stripes to make angles, and to make my shoulders look bigger. I roughly drew the shape I wanted, then folded my pattern piece down the centre back and at angles that would encompass shoulders and sleeves:


I was concerned that the fabric might stretch out along all those seam lines, so I went nuts with the clear elastic and stabilised everything - the shoulder seams, the short vertical seam in the upper back, and the angled shoulder seams.


You may notice I didn't overlock my edges (no need), and that the seam lines where I didn't want any stretching were sewn with a straight stitch before having the clear elastic sewn in. No apologies; that's what works for me :).

And here's how that looks on:




The hems were just pressed in place with steam-a-seam as I didn't want the look of stitches. We'll see how well that lasts!



I like this top more than the terry version, but I think it needs taking in at the waist and hips so as not to pool. And I have to admit I haven't been wearing it - though perhaps I will when we hit summer? 

And what about version 4, in brocade? Great question! To be honest, the original photos I took of these tops a couple of months ago were so dire (I was bone tired, I hadn't ironed them properly, the weather was appalling, and there was a LOT of mess in the photo backgrounds) that I had this idea pegged as a bit of a failure, and lost interest. Then someone on twitter recently was asking why more sewists didn't post their sewing failures, so I retook the photos intending to do a roundup blog post of these tops along with a couple of other recent disappointing sewing projects, and whaddayaknow, I actually like them.  So I guess the brocade top project is still a possibility... Has that ever happened to you? 


See you soon
Gabrielle x


24 comments:

  1. I do hope you don't give up on this project! It's fun to see how you are figuring out the shape. Keep going!

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  2. I actually LOVE the crisp fabric in the first photo. So different! Can't wait to see the "final" product!

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  3. I am interested to see it made up in the brocade. The blue striped version looks great. I rarely go shopping so don't get to look for inspiration in that way.

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  4. When I buy rtw, I always go for simple shapes, so your first top is something I would buy and wear to death! A brocade version sounds really good to me, I have been seeing lots of simple tops in Japanese fashion mags made in outstanding fabrics.

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  5. I agree with Gillian, I'm really enjoying reading about you figuring this out! I live both these versions, particularly the second one. The pattern placement is ace. I love that you challenge yourself so much with your sewing.

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  6. I love the wY you've got the stripes meeting in the back on your second version - very inspired fabric placement! There's a short sleeved kimono top in the August Burda that seems to be similar to what you're trying to achieve, although I think your second pattern is really working

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  7. Thanks Meg :), maybe I need to find a way to wear a short sleeved sweatshirt... it looks a lot better in the photos than I expected!

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  8. Thank you Marie, I'm interested to see how it works too but also a bit worried I'll stuff it up!


    I probably should avoid shops altogether but they're all around my office - very hard to avoid!

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  9. Thank you Erin, that's so heartening:). I really will have to make the brocade version happen!

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  10. Thank you Kathryn, I thought this was going to be the world's most boring blog post, so I'm glad to hear it's not! Aw thanks, I love a pattern placement challenge :)

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  11. Thanks Kristy! I haven't looked at the most recent Burda magazines, but now you've got me thinking... I wonder if there's something similar in an older issue too?

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  12. Thanks Kirsty! Yes, I tried! Since initially I thought these tops were complete failures, I went back to the shop to look for the top - I was sure they wouldn't have sold out as the style was a bit too OTT for most - but they didn't have it in stock any more, and I couldn't find it online either :(. So I really have to make it if I want it!


    These two stretch versions didn't have a zip. If I remake it in the same sort of proportions in brocade it'll need a CB zip, but I'd like to make it more exaggerated (like my inspiration top) so that it can do with just a side zip or none at all.

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  13. So interesting. I also love the structure of the first top, but I also love the slight drape of the second and the stripe placement is so very clever! I can't help but think that in a non-stretchy fabric, it would be so restrictive in the arms with the shape of those sleeves, or was it much roomier in the brocade to allow you to raise your arms. I hope you do manage to work out the brocade - I think it would look amazing!

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  14. I love the shape of this and I think it works well with the stripes. A brocade version would be amazing.

    I don't shop in stores other than for basics like knickers and tights and I don't miss it, but I do loads of snoop shopping online and in magazines.

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  15. I love the stripes at the back. Why didn't you muslin in something woven though? Is the brocade you have in mind stretch?

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  16. Thanks Debbie! Yes, it will be restrictive, definitely. The top I'm trying to emulate was bigger all over, but it was still restrictive due to the shoulder shape - when I lifted an arm the top had to move upwards too. It's a pretty crazy shape to make deliberately, isn't it! I hope I can work it out too!

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  17. Wow that terry top is really quite striking! I'm liking the lines and the shape on you :) The blue one is also fabulous - great opportunity for the placement of those stripes! I'm looking forward to seeing the brocade version!

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  18. My daughter wears a short sleeved terry top with a long sleeved t shirt underneath so it looks good and is practical. There us some very interesting seaming with the second top. Well thought out ! Good luck with your drafting -hopefully you can nail it. Do you have the brocade already?

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  19. Love them both, but really love the first one - the shape and fabric look great on you. I agree you should keep going on using the pattern for more versions!

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  20. Thanks Catherine, I'm glad to hear you like the shape - it's pretty basic but I ththe shoulder line should be a bit bolder looking in brocade... Oh yes, snoop shopping is great!

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  21. Thanks Chloe. Yes, great question. My first muslin was in a fabric with absolutely no give, a crisp metallic fabric that I thought would give me a decent idea of what the shape would look like in brocade - but the top was a disaster; I couldn't even get it on. I guess I made version 2 in stretch because I really wanted something I knew I'd be able to try on, even if it was still too small - and then I didn't love version 2 but I liked the shape in stretch, which is why there is a stretch version 3. Version 4 will definitely not be stretchy!! This process probably sounds quite illogical - I guess I let myself go off on tangents with sewing where I wouldn't be able to in other areas of my life :).

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  22. Thanks Mel, it looks so much better than I thought it would in that terry, but the sewing is so rubbish that I probably still won't wear it :(. I hope the brocade version works - next problem is to find the time to make it!

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  23. That sounds cool - I'm not very good at layering but will have a go, thanks for that suggestion :). Thank you, fingers crossed! Yes I do already have the brocade - a nice heavy one, though the colours are totally different to my inspiration top.

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  24. Thank you Emma - it's so funny, the first one looks good in photos but I feel quite embarrassed about its construction... I guess no one will see the insides, will they! Thanks, I will, not sure when, but I will continue!

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